Serbia // exploring the grit, the wild and breathtaking

I was planning a road trip through the Balkans, and Belgrade just happened to be the easiest city to fly in to. So exploring Serbia was added to my itinerary. I’ll be honest, I didn’t know what to expect. I thought war-torn, dirty, unsafe. I thought I’d do a tour and then be on my way. Well, I was wrong.

A little history //

Belgrade is situated at the junction of two rivers, the Sava and the Danube – Europe’s second-largest river. Due to its strategic positioning Belgrade has fought in over 115 wars and has been destroyed and rebuilt more than 44 times during its history! It was conquered by the Celts, Romans, Goths, Huns, Ottomans, and then fought over by the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian Empires.

Exploring the unexplored

It’s no secret Serbians are very patriotic. They feel a sense of injustice to how they were treated by the West in the Bosnia and Kosovo Wars in the 1990s. And still today there is a lot of hurt in the older generations. But Belgradians portray this sense of resilience and just get on with it. This is evident when you walk the streets, some parts of the city are gritty – the footpaths are cracked, there’s lots of graffiti, the buildings are old and still bear scars from the 1999 NATO bombings.     

But then you turn a corner and are surprised with green space, beautifully architecture churches or cute cobbled laneways. The locals, with well-spoken English, love to have a chat, are philosophical about nature and have a real lust for life.  

My top five sights //

Here are my five favourite places to visit (or things to do) from my journey through Serbia.

1 // Belgrade Fortress

Belgrade Fortress is located a short stroll through Kalemegdan Park, Belgrade’s largest park and sprinkled with little stalls of souvenirs and food. The fortress was built in 279 BC and is the core and oldest section of the urban area. It’s worth a visit because it’s the most historical site in the city but also it’s here where you can soak up the friendly, casual spirit of the locals. Strolling through the park with friends or family, sitting on benches chatting and laughing as the sun sets on the horizon.

Overlooking the two rivers you can see, on the other side of the river, some of the 170 river clubs that line the river edge. Lonely Planet has consistently named Belgrade as the number one party city in the world, so don’t forget to check out one of the floating nightclubs! I arrived mid-week so no partying for me this time.

2 // Church of Saint Sava

The Church of Saint Sava was probably the most surprising sight for me and I was in of the size and beauty of it. Saint Sava is the largest church in Southeastern Europe. Construction began in 1935 and was designed in a Serbian-Byzantine style. The dome is 70m tall and on top is a 12m high gold-plated cross.

The interior of the Church was being restored when I visited but you can enjoy the serenity of park surrounding St Sava. I also recommend visiting the crypt, sitting 7m below the Church it is finished and is impressive. You need to enter on the left side of the church.

3 // Explore Skadarlija

Cobblestoned roads, iron gaslights, restaurant terraces, bright flower arrangements and wine shops, Skadarlija is the bohemian haunt of Belgrade. And it comes alive in the afternoon and evening with the tourists flocking to the cafes and musicians in the street creating a relaxed, social vibe.  

As I sat in one of the taverns drinking local beer I watched a group of locals congregating outside a wine shop. They ended up walking through the street in a procession carrying their glasses of wine – I really have no idea what they were doing but it looked like they were worshipping the wine!

4 // Walk the streets

It’s really easy to walk around the city and it’s incredible to witness all spectrums of Belgrade, the grit and history to the architecture and greenery. Some of the places to see along the way include:

• Republic Square, one of the most dynamic places in the city and home to the Serbian National Theatre and National Museum
• Knez Mihailova Street, the main shopping boulevard
• Explore Nikola Tesla Museum
• St Mark’s Church, the Neo-Byzantine church is one of the largest in Serbia
• House of the National Assembly of Serbia, one of the most photogenic buildings in the city
• The luxury Moskva Hotel, built in the style of Russian secession and is a landmark in Belgrade.

5 // Get out of the city and explore Serbia!

I headed south out of Belgrade on my way down to Sarajevo. Exploring Serbia and its countryside was beautiful, wild and it felt so untouched. The wildflowers were in full bloom and it was a really great drive.

Drina River House

A must-do stop on the way south is the famous Drina River House. The house is located on the river Drina near the town, Bajina Bašta. It was built in 1968 by a group of swimmers who needed refuge from the mighty river. The untameable Drina has washed away the house six times over history but locals rebuild it stronger and sturdier each time. It’s very picturesque and a nice little stop at the restaurant on the shoreline for a coffee or tea.  

Tara National Park

The river Drina is one of the most beautiful rivers, which is a magnificent green colour. On the drive to Bosnia & Herzegovina we followed the river and gorge to the border, it was truly breathtaking views. Before crossing the border though I stopped for a short hike in Tara National Park, one of five national parks in Serbia. Compared to most national parks I’ve experienced, it’s still pretty natural and sometimes I wondered if I was still following the right path!

But the rocky path was correct and I reached my destination, Banjska Stena viewpoint – and the view was spectacular! From a mere 1,065m above sea level, the view included the famous Drina canyon, Perucac lake, as well as Bosnia and Herzegovina’s Osata area (located on the other side of the river). The national park is also home to Serbia’s largest population of the endangered brown bear. But thankfully we didn’t see any while out hiking.

Šargan Eight

The final stop before crossing the border was the Šargan Eight, a narrow-gauge heritage railway. The railway runs from the village of Mokra Gora to Šargan Vitasi station and is a great way to go exploring Serbia. It winds through the mountains with stops along the way to take in the incredible views.

On the Ground Snapshot //

How to get to Serbia:

I flew from Dubai with FlyDubai into Serbia’s capital, Belgrade where I stayed for a few nights. The Balkans are difficult to navigate for car hire (albeit not impossible) and cross-border trains are non-existent. So as Belgrade was the start of my Balkans road trip I organised a private transfer from Belgrade to my next stop of Sarajevo in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Best time to visit:

I visited during May and it was perfect Spring weather. Exploring Serbia in winter gets pretty cold.

Getting a visa:

As an Aussie, I didn’t need a visa for a tourist stay but don’t forget to check the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Serbia.

Getting around:

Belgrade is super easy to walk around and I would recommend exploring by foot. There are also trams in the city but I never bothered to work out how to buy a ticket!

Where to exchange money:

I exchanged some Euros for Dinar at an exchange office on the street, I had heard these are cheaper than the banks or airport.

Is Serbia safe?

Yes! I found the locals friendly, chatty and jovial. I didn’t feel unsafe wandering the streets of Belgrade. The most unsafe I felt was in Tara National Park when I realised it was home to Serbia’s largest population of the brown bear!

Food and Drink:

Serbian food will never leave you hungry! I loved the tavern atmosphere once the sun sets in Belgrade. One night I ate in the Skadarlija area where a group of old local men were playing live traditional Serbian music. It was such a great atmosphere and I ate bread, salads, kebabs, potato….so much carbs which drinking local beer and rakija – like a local fruit brandy.

Let me know what you love most about exploring Serbia!