Samarkand // the ancient city of the Silk Road
Countries within Central Asia fascinate me – the history, the people and the cultural mix where west meets east. Combined with my strong interest in exploring the intricate and complex designs of Islamic art, it’s no surprise that Samarkand, host to some of the most beautiful blue mosaics in the world, quickly became one of my favourite cities.
A little history //
Located at the crossroads of world cultures, Samarkand dates back 2,750 years and has been one of the greatest cities of Central Asia. As I walked through the streets it felt like taking a step back in time to a rich history of trade, religion and conquerors.
Today, the city is what it is, due to the 14th-century Turco-Mongol Persianate conqueror, Amir Timur (Tamerlane). Timur rebuilt the great city and helped it prosper from its strategic location on the Silk Road trade route – between China and the Mediterranean.
Undoubtedly, Timur is the hero of Uzbekistan. Married to a descendant of Genghis Khan, Timur founded the Timurid Empire and Timurid dynasty (1370–1405). Resulting in the Central Asian region blossoming economically and culturally under his reign.
Although a ruthless warrior, Timur gained a reputation as a patron of the arts. He would spare the lives of artists and craftsmen so that he could bring them to improve and beautify his imperial capital, Samarkand. Today, the streets and buildings are like walking through a live art gallery.
My top five sights //
Samarkand is stunning and I was surprised by how much there was to see! But there are always favourites and here are my top five!
Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum
My first stop and all I could do was stand in the courtyard in awe. Looking up, looking around, the summer sun scorching my skin, feeling like a princess in a lost city of Persia. The Uzbek chatter from the locals bringing me back to the now. Walking around the Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum I felt like a child at the store, wanting to run my fingers over the intricate mosaics.
The Mausoleum is the site of the tomb for Amir Timur and the burial place for his descendants – his two sons and beloved grandsons. Built in the 15th century and intended originally as a madrasah (an educational institute).
However, this all changed after the sudden death of Timur’s grandson, Muhammad Sultan. Inconsolable, Timur ordered the remains of his beloved grandson to be placed in the madrasah and a mausoleum to be built around it.
Timur died before the mausoleum was completed. So construction was finished by another of his grandsons – Ulugbek. Gur-e-Amir became Timur’s final resting place.
Entering inside the mausoleum I see that the burial places are marked with gravestones. The one in the centre topped with a single piece of jade belongs to Timur. The burials themselves are located below the gravestones, in the basement.
Registan Square
My next stop was at The Registan – the heart of the ancient city of Samarkand. It consists of three distinct madrasahs around a central plaza where people gathered for royal announcements, markets and public executions.
The Ulugh Beg Madrasah (on the left) is the oldest building of the Registan Ensemble and dates back to the 15th century. It was one of the finest universities in the whole of Muslim Orient.
The square courtyard was one of my favourite spots and perfect to stop and escape the summer sun. Sitting in the shade of the trees just watching the world slowly drift by. Surrounding the internal courtyard were lecture rooms and dormitory cells where students lived. Today, these are small market stalls for the local craftsmen and women.
The Sher-Dor Madrasah (on the right of the square) was constructed in the 17th century and is one of the very few religious buildings flouting the ban in Islam of the depiction of living beings on religious buildings – see the two tigers above the door.
The final building, which stands in the middle, is the Tilya-Kori Madrasah and was built 10 years after the Sher-Dor. It was a residential college for students and played the role of the grand mosque.
The mosque is exquisite. This is a real must-see, with the main hall abundantly gilded with over 4kg of gold!
Siyob Bazaar
The atmosphere of this ancient city is alive in Siyob Bazaar – the bright colours, the constant chatter and the smells of fruit, spices and bread took me back to an earlier era. Spread across 5 hectares, Siyob Bazaar is an agricultural market strategically located next to the mosque of Bibi-Khanym.
There’s a huge amount of spices to choose from, dried fruits and nuts and of course the bread. Which you need to try! The decorative circular loaves have a glossy crust and are thick and heavy – great for the traveller because it never seems to go stale!
Bibi-Khanym Mosque
My next stop was right next door at the beautiful Bibi-Khanym Mosque. The scale of the mosque is impressive and was once one of the greatest in the Islamic world. For me, the majestic blue domes are still breathtaking.
Although a poetic beginning, sadly the construction was beyond its years and collapsed the first years after completion. It has been reconstructed over time but due to its size and lack of funding the buildings cannot be entered.
Shakh-i-Zinda Necropolis
My final stop for the day was by far my favourite site. Walking up the stairs to the Shakh-i-Zinda necropolis, I’m confronted with a blue-tiled, infinite geometric patterned avenue of mausoleums from the 14th and 15th centuries – wow!
The complex was called Shakh-i-Zinda which means “The Living King” in Persian. And is believed to be the burial site of Prophet Muhammad’s cousin, Kusam ibn Abbas, who brought Islam to Uzbekistan. Therefore, the site later became an important pilgrimage centre that was revered by the people as sacred.
And there are no words that can describe the beauty and spiritual presence of this place.
If you have ever wondered about Uzbekistan, studied the ancient Silk Road or enjoy exploring the unexplored, then Samarkand is the place to visit. With Uzbekistan’s recent inclusion as part of Lonely Planet’s number one region to travel to in 2020 – now is the time to explore.
And it’s easier than you think. Check out some of my on-the-ground tips below.
On the Ground Snapshot //
How to get to Samarkand:
I flew from Dubai with FlyDubai into Uzbekistan’s capital, Tashkent where I had an overnight stay. The following day I caught the high-speed train to Samarkand. I suggest you allow plenty of time at the train station as the security is quite high. There is a ticket check-point, security check-point and then registration where you need to get your ticket stamped.
Best time to visit:
I visited during July and the days were hot and dry! Temperatures reached over 40°C and air conditioning isn’t common outside of your hotel. So I recommend the best time to visit is Spring (April to May) and Autumn (September to early November) when the weather is milder.
Getting a visa:
It’s super easy now because in early 2019 a visa-free regime was introduced for citizens of over 55 countries, including Australia, UK and those in the European Union. But if you’re unsure check out the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Uzbekistan website for more details.
Getting around:
I pre-organised all my main transfers through the hotel. Taxis are a little insane and the airport and train stations are chaotic on arrival.
Where to exchange money:
I didn’t see a lot of ATMs so I highly recommend exchanging money into Uzbek SOM at the airport or check with your hotel beforehand. You can’t get Uzbek SOM outside of the country and most smaller places will only exchange new US dollar bills. I made the mistake of thinking I could change Kyrgyzstani SOM (neighbouring country) but no one wanted it!
Is Uzbekistan safe?
As a solo female traveller, this is the number one question I get asked. And the answer is definitely YES! I had no issues at all and it actually was a far more welcoming country than I was expecting.
I arrived in the capital, Tashkent, in the middle of the night and was surprised by how well lit the streets and parks were. The following morning I noticed how clean and green the city is – 30% of the city is green space, that’s about 15.2 thousand hectares!
In Samarkand, the local people were super friendly. People always coming up for a conversation or a selfie – which was a bit strange at first but they really don’t see a huge amount of western tourists.
The majority of the population are Muslim so I do recommend you wear modest clothing. Many places you visit will be mosques. But unlike the Middle East, you are not required to cover your head when entering a mosque.
Food and Drink:
The food was hearty! It’s a country of meat lovers so I didn’t see a lot of vegetarian food but there were many varieties of salads which were fresh and delicious. You can’t visit Uzbekistan and not try plov – basically rice, onion, carrot and meat… lots of meat!
Tea is the main drink in Uzbekistan. It is usually had before and after every meal. Green tea or black tea is the most popular and it is never taken with sugar.
Also one thing I was not expecting, once you leave the hotel you will only find squat toilets. However, my tip is if there is a host, just ask nicely to use the western toilet and typically she will unlock the disabled toilet.
What else should I do in Uzbekistan?
Uzbekistan is quickly becoming a country to visit. With its recent inclusion as part of Lonely Planet’s number one region to travel to in 2020. So now is the time to explore.
Samarkand was a real highlight for me but if I had more time I would’ve loved to explore more of Uzbekistan.
Continue the Silk Road theme and visit Khiva, a small walled city with narrow streets and more delicate blue mosaics. Commonly described as a living museum. Bukhara is also a popular stop, described as one of the most well-preserved Islamic cities of Central Asia from the 10th to 17th centuries.
You will most likely arrive or depart from the capital, Tashkent, so make sure you stay a day or two. Tashkent is surprisingly cosmopolitan and has a European vibe. But my hot tip is to explore the metro stations. I know, sounds odd! But a photography ban in the metro was recently lifted so you can now go and photograph these incredible stations adorned with art and ornate architecture.
Have you been to Samarkand? I’d love to hear your favourite sights!
