Sarajevo // inextricably linked to tragedy and hope
Driving through the Balkans region, Bosnia and Herzegovina was the second country on my itinerary. And I don’t think there has been a country or a nationality that has surprised me more. It is remarkable. Its capital, Sarajevo, is linked to tragedy and hope. Scarred by conflict and a history that’s impossibly sad. Yet there is so much strength and pride in the locals.
A little history //
Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina and is inextricably linked to tragedy and hope. Yet there is unity and respect where church bells ring next door to the Islam call for prayer. Over the past 20 years, this city has become remarkable, it is resilient and full of hope.
You can read about the Siege of Sarajevo anywhere on the internet. In short it was the longest siege of any capital city in the history of modern warfare. Lasting 1,425 days during the Bosnian War between April 1992 and February 1996.
During the Siege, the surrounding mountains were its worse drawbacks. The Bosnian Serbs stationed themselves in the mountains surrounding the city. The Bosniaks inside the besieged city were poorly quipped and unable to break the siege.
Today these same mountains are a spectacular natural beauty of the city.
My top five sights //
Here are my five places to visit (or things to do) from my time in Sarajevo.
1 // Yellow Bastion
The Yellow Bastion was built in the period of the Ottoman Empire. It is part of the old walls that protected the city in the 18th century. From here you are privy to some of the most spectacular views of the city.
You are also overlooking the Martyrs’ Memorial Cemetery Kovači. This is the main cemetery for soldiers from the Bosnian Army who were killed during the Siege of Sarajevo in the 90s.
2 // Sarajevo Siege Tour
Sarajevo doesn’t try to hide from its past. I highly recommend taking a Sarajevo Siege tour. It was one of the most interesting tours I’ve been on. It’s difficult to grasp the terror of what happened here as recently as the mid-1990s. The people are friendly, and the city generally has a quiet and nice vibe. But you don’t need to look far for the evidence.
Any building which pre-dates that time is pockmarked with bullet and shrapnel holes from the 44-month long siege. Sniper Alley was the informal name for the main boulevard in the city. During the Bosnian War it was lined with sniper posts and became infamous as a dangerous place for civilians to traverse. It’s believed the snipers wounded 1,030 people and killed 225, including 60 children.
3 // Tunnel of Hope
Sarajevo is linked to tragedy and hope. The Tunnel of Hope was constructed in 1993 during the Siege. It was used to link Sarajevo with Bosnian-held territory on the other side of the airport, which was held by the UN. The red mark on the ground represents where a bomb exploded killing 9 men and almost destroying the tunnel opening.
The tunnel allowed food, war supplies and humanitarian aid to come into the city. It also allowed people to get out. The tunnel was 800m long and on average not higher than 1.60m and no wider than 1m.
4 // Walk around the remarkable Old Town
If you’ve read a few of my destination blogs, you will know that my favourite thing to do in any new city is to walk around! It’s typically the best way to see the sights and get a feel for the vibe of the city.
Old Town was pretty quiet during the day. But with a number of restaurants, there was a nice cultural vibe. Don’t forget to try the cevapi! Try my recommendation below in my what to eat section.
Latin Bridge
The Latin Bridge is an Ottoman style bridge and is just a short stroll from Old Town. It is famous as the site of the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria by Gavrilo Princip in 1914. This assassination triggered a chain of events that resulted in World War I.
5 // Get out of the city!
I’m a fan of exploring towns outside the capital city. And Bosnia and Herzegovina has some popular sites.
Mostar
Mostar is probably one of the more famous cities due to the Stari Most (Old Bridge). Built by the Ottomans in the 16th century it is considered an exemplary piece of Islamic architecture in the Balkans. Sadly, it was destroyed during the war in 1993 and needed to be reconstructed, opening in 2004. Although not original, due to its historical story the bridge is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
It is also a tradition for young men of the town to jump from the bridge to the cold river below. They even hold the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series here.
Blagaj Tekija
A beautiful Dervish monastery, Blagaj Tekija is located under a cliff and was built nearly 600 years ago.
Pocitelj
Pocitelj is a historic village and pretty much an open air museum.
Kravice Falls
The Kravice waterfalls are 28m high and have been under protection since 1954. It has a hidden paradise feel, with clear waters and surrounded by trees.
On the Ground Snapshot //
How to get to Sarajevo:
I was on a road trip so drove into Bosnia and Herzegovina from Serbia and then on to Croatia. There are a number of international airlines which fly into Sarajevo, including flydubai, Qatar Air, Turkish Airlines, SAS and Lufthansa just to name a few.
Best time to visit:
I visited during May and it was mild and a little rainy. Winter can get really cold.
Getting a visa:
As an Aussie I didn’t need a visa for a tourist stay.
Getting around:
Sarajevo is small for a city and is easy to walk around. I would recommend exploring by foot.
Where to exchange money:
I exchanged some Euros for Bosnian Mark at an exchange office on the street, I had heard these are cheaper than the banks or airport.
Is Sarajevo safe?
Yes! I found the locals really friendly. Language was a bit more challenging than in Serbia but I didn’t feel unsafe wandering the streets.
Food and Drink:
When in Bosnia you eat cevapi! Cevapi is grilled mince, like a kofta, and is served with flatbread, chopped onion and sour cream. It’s pretty delicious. I ate at Zeljo in the Old Town, it is popular with the locals.
Have you been to Sarajevo? I’d love to hear what you liked the most.
